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It's 10 round trips in the Speedster for me.  The first two years when I didn't have it I flew and last year I got lazy and came in the BMW.  This year is a 50/50 regarding what I'll drive.

Jack's message is right.  Given proper sorting and care these can become "real cars".

Driving these for long distances is helped by projects like the side windows (see how I got us back on topic? ).  I absolutely recommend the lexan window project for anyone who wants to drive in a variety of weather.  Not only do they seal better but you can actually see out of 'em.  I strongly recommend some sort of provision for ventilation, the easiest being the round aircraft pop-out vents.  Well worth the minimal time and effort.

Last edited by Lane Anderson

Even though I have a modified "pocket" along the sides of my top material and the windows fit into it well, they still want to try to pull out (sideways) at highway speeds, away from the top, especially when passing Semi-Trucks.  They never pull out far enough to stay pulled out and always return against the inner side of the pocket, but I would hope that a 1/4" thick window wouldn't do that (as much).  The bottoms, riding on the top of the door, don't seem to move enough to pull the rubber gasket off of the door.  I just see bowing at the top.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Cal wrote: "So having thicker material will help weigh the window down and not pull out."

It's not really a function of weight.  The thinner material flexes more for a given outside suction on the window causing it to bow out at speed.  The thicker material doesn't flex outwardly as much.  It also fits into the top pocket better to prevent it from popping out up there, too.  

 

What made the biggest difference on mine was making the pocket along the side of the top (which the top of the window fits into) tighter by sewing a new seam about 1” closer to the edge.  That keeps the top material from flaring out at speed and keeps the window material from pulling away from the top.  I show what I did in my “How to install a convertible top” article up under under ”Resources” but published that way back when Photobucket was actually a useful photo server.  It has ended that free service so I’ll edit it with embedded photos and republish it on here.  Thanks for nothing, Photobucket!

I’m way too lazy to remember to attach/release a strap either at the top or bottom of the window so I needed to come up with a solution that didn’t involve thinking about how to open/close the door.   With my setup, regardless of windows in or out, you just get in and close the door and the windows stay sealed.  Using 1/4” material would only make them better.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols
joelabraham posted:

Winter Project - Plexiglas side curtains

I got a pretty good seal using a firm rubber strip glued to the inside of the windshield frame and foam rubber glued to the leading edge of the plexi.

I went for a ride today and I couldn't feel any air coming in. 


 

Side windows

Joel,

You are definitely on to something extra special that should appeal to many Speedster owners.  Any chance you might begin a new cottage industry and start producing your side windows?

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Last edited by Cliff Presley - Charlotte, NC

I just re-published my "Installing a stay fast top on a Speedster" article up under the Resources tab, here:

https://www.speedsterowners.co...t-top-on-a-speedster

This new version has embedded photos and now makes more sense.  The older version used the Photobucket server which is no longer available and I have deleted it.

 

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

With my current CMC side curtains, built per instructions and with the CMC supplied rubber for the top edge, I have trouble getting the rubber to tuck into the slot on the edge of the top.  On the passenger side, I can tuck it in before I get into the car.

With my new side curtains, using the DrClock recommended rubber, I am hoping the situation is improved. The DrClock rubber has a shorter and more flexible fin.

Do other people have trouble with the top of their side curtains?

Michael McKelvey posted:

With my current CMC side curtains, built per instructions and with the CMC supplied rubber for the top edge, I have trouble getting the rubber to tuck into the slot on the edge of the top.  On the passenger side, I can tuck it in before I get into the car.

With my new side curtains, using the DrClock recommended rubber, I am hoping the situation is improved. The DrClock rubber has a shorter and more flexible fin.

Do other people have trouble with the top of their side curtains?

Could you please post a pic or description of the DrClock rubber ? I think I know what it is....like a small U channel with a curl or Y off one side / bottom of it ? 

I made my side curtains out of 3/16" plexi after several trials with sheets of cardboard to get the desired shape to fit in as tightly as possible up into the convertible roof channel while trying to tuck inside of and behind the windshield post and still being able to open and close the door. I don't use any rubber along the top curve and can't see any reason to do so on my application. The slot in the canvas top is nicely done where it receives the side window. 

When approaching a toll booth I just remove the side widow altogether ahead of time. When approaching the US Border heading South, I remove the side window while under the weather canopy in full view of the wily and sometimes exuberant "Gendarme" awaiting my plea with baited breath and plenty of questions. 

As an aside and a little over there:

Most border crossings into the US from Canada are uneventful and the best rule is to offer no info unless requested and only answer direct questions with direct answers. Show some respect and you'll likely get some back.

I live only 25 minutes North of New York State and frequently have packages sent there for me to pick up when a US vendor is too lazy / ill equipped  ( geographically challenged / not able to figure out a six digit postal code ) to ship to Canada.

Travelling alone a little while back, I handed the passport to the US border guard in the late morning on a Tuesday on a quiet day at the border. He looked at me and said " I'm not letting you in" . I said...how come ? and he said " What's your home address" ?  I gave it to him and then he then asked what is the purpose of my trip and how long did I want to be in the US ? I said ...to pick up a package....for personal, not professional use and the value is only about $ XXX and I'd likely be only about 20 minutes. He handed me back my Wife's passport and said go ahead and have a nice day. 

Recognizing my good fortune having met a very good Sport at the US border, I quickly gaffed my package and got a good stool at the local lounge in Ogdensburg. Where else can a Canuck get a Canadian beer for less $$$ than in Canada, eh ? While on number two, a local Lad heard my story and then thought for a bit and finally said..." What are you going to tell the Canuck side "? I cancelled number three and shoved off.  The Canuck side was sympathetic too and all went well. 

In a nutshell, a Canuck heading South will encounter a border guard with his / her hand near a gun asking who you are. Returning home a Canuck will encounter a border guard with his / her hand near a cash register asking how much you bought. 

Sorry for the drivel...but it all happens thru a window opening on the left side. 

 

 

Last edited by David Stroud IM Roadster D

Cliff-It has been mentioned before on the site that speedsters aren't  exactly the same and I discovered this when I made the plexi. side  curtains for my vintage. Even though the top fits well and looks symmetrical the passenger side window had to be made slightly smaller than the drivers. It would be tough to make them for someone unless I had two rigid (not cardboard) patterns. Then there is the problem fitting to the doors because the holes aren't all in the same place. Sorry.

Joel

Bill Prout posted:

@David Stroud IM Roadster D Got a close up of how it sits?

This is going to be tricky to explain. I did use the above noted type of rubber channel on my side window bottoms. 

However, I just looked at my hardtop in the basement and checked the profile of the rubber channel used on it. I bought some rubber channel with a profile that I can only describe as an upsidedown view of a tooth molar. Imagine the roots of the tooth creating the U part of the channel that got pressed up and glued to the tail section of my hardtop and the biting part of the tooth as a roundish bulb type of profile that rests down on the body of the car. In order to make all fit nicely, I had to modify (cut away parts of the channel)  in the area where the roof approaches the rear of the window  where it rests on the body of the car .  That modified part of the channel approximates the part that Alan referenced above. A cut and fit situation for sure. Not easy to describe, sorry. 

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Last edited by David Stroud IM Roadster D

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