Ed...
FIBRAL: " Fibral Lite U - Pol" UP0700 "
Begin to sand as soon as it sets, do not let in fully cure as it's like a rock. ...you'll be a a yard sale looking for a Samurai sword to fall on.
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Fibral here: http://www.ebay.com/itm/UPOL-U...36872787&vxp=mtr
Thanks you, sir. Ordering it up right now.
Progress occurs. Also came home to find that Ru Paul stuff Alan recommends so urgently. 
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Ru Paul??? No, I don't wanna know. 
Just looked at your progress pics, Ed; it's coming along nicely. I've done that kind of fiberglass work, narrowing/widening/lengthening/shortening hoods for offroad tube frame race buggies for friends. I always bitched that it would be easier to build a car around an existing hood instead of cutting up a hood to fit the car, but they never saw it my way (funny that). Then getting the contours back before painting 3 or 4 color graphics; it was a good experience.
1954 Pontiac Chieftain. I think my Spyder can fit in the trunk.
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The townhouse I live in can fit in the trunk...
ALB posted:The townhouse I live in can fit in the trunk...
Mine would fit in the glove box...
With the IM in the living room there is very little room to move around in.
More fiberglass progress. That Fibral stuff really seems to work.
That's pretty good progress there!
You'll really have a 'beefy' TD when you are done. 
Ed: LOVE the snowfall on the pics.
Lotta work, for sure.
Oh, and now, more than evah, I want a lift.
Uhhhhh.......Santa?
For fixing openings like those cowl holes, Ed, I've found that taping in cardboard from underneath keeps the fresh fiberglass from "sagging", so there's less filling to do. After the layers on top are cured, pull off the cardboard, sand a little and glass from the underside. It doesn't matter if there are a few paper fibers left; they'll glass in quite nicely. Al
Or cover the cardboard with plastic wrap and then nothing sticks....
Robert M posted:Considering ditching the subwoofer box and fiberglassing in a sealed enclosure between the rear seat and the firewall. I'm in the research phase right now but it's looking good. My only decision will be doing the actual fiberglassing myself or taking it to a glasser.
If you decide to do this Robert, take it to Brian at Bullet Fiberglass on 41, just south of Ave. 15. He is familiar with our cars and does great work.
@Robert m
Winter projects?
I'm going to finish my house, or die trying.
Houses are never finished, man. You, of all people, must know that.
edsnova posted:Houses are never finished, man. You, of all people, must know that.
New construction. "Finished" means I pass an occupancy inspection and move my butt in. "Die trying" means the past 10 months.
Insulation being sprayed for the next week and a half. Drywall coming just before Christmas and complete by mid-January (LORD willing).
just finished to update my heater vents (still need to fit the rubber gaskets)
I found those on ebay : http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Butterf...yDxXh08q&vxp=mtr
The old ones always had a hot draft leaking out of them and they just looked bad. Now its all shiny and properly sealed when needed.
JC
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I did a couple things recently. I had planned to relocate my 10" sub-woofer from the enclosure I made to the back wall of the luggage shelf. I pulled off the piece of carpet that covers this area and drilled a hole to check for depth etc. I found that in the middle of the wall there was 9" of depth. With the angle of the slope I figured I had 7" of depth at the top and about 11" near the bottom. This was more than enough depth to mount the speaker. I crawled under the car and was finally able to make sense of what I was seeing and the area was clear of any obstructions. My initial plan was to seal up the cavity by fiberglassing it all in.
Once the carpet was off I looked at the exposed fiberglass and for whatever reason I decided to remove all of the carpet so I could add sound deadening material. I purchased the "Peel-n-Seal" stuff from Lowes, got a heat gun, and the other necessary supplies and got to measuring, cutting, and attaching the sound deadening stuff to all the exposed areas.
I put one of the seats in and went to a few stereo shops and inquired about what my best option was for the sub-woofer. All three shops I went to suggested the same thing. Instead of fiberglassing in the cavity I should just build a new sub-woofer enclosure out of lightweight MDF, cover it in resin for waterproofing, and mount the enclosure inside the cavity. This would provide a better sound than a fiberglass enclosure. I went ahead and got estimates from each shop in the event I decided not to do it myself. I decided to have one of the shops build the enclosure and mount it for me since the price was decent. A square hole was cut in the back wall that measured about 12"x18". The enclosure was made and covered in resin to waterproof it. The front of the enclosure was slanted to match the slope and instead of installing MDF the front of the box it was closed off by fiberglassing it closed. A 10" speaker ring was glassed into this as well. A ledge was attached to the plywood "firewall" that the sub enclosure would rest on to support the back. Another wooden trim piece was attached at the inside bottom of the cutout in the fiberglass so the front would be supported. The enclosure was installed so front was flush with the back seat area. A thin piece of fiberboard was used to cover the front of the enclosure. The fiberboard extended about 3" beyond the opening that had been cutout and the material is thick enough to be supportive but thin enough to form to the contour of the back seat area. Cap screws were screwed through the fiberboard and into the fiberglass to hold it all in tight. The fiberboard was also coated in resin to waterproof it.
I picked up the car and put all of the carpet back in using both 3M 90 and 3M 77 spray adhesive. I had a can of each on hand so I just used those. The carpet went back in pretty easy. I also replaced all of the jute batting that was originally installed.
I did all of this so I could use the luggage shelf again and not have the enclosure sticking out so much, it interfered with leg room as it reduced what there is by about 3". Overall everything turned out very well. The car seems to rattle less because of the material I installed, the doors sound heavy and close with a thud, and the sub-woofer still sounds awesome. HOWEVER, with the sub-enclosure being attached to the vehicle body instead of laying on the carpet that covers the luggage shelf, things tend to vibrate when the volume is cranked up.
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Robert that looks pretty nice. Any chance of getting a pict from the back side? I have a Retrosound sub woofer self enclosed, self powered, that I am thinking of installing either under the rear seat (lifting the seat up) but you just gave me an idea. I would prefer to not have to build a box but maybe just do what you did but hand the unit there with only the speaker grill protruding if I can make a nice surround my goal simply to add depth as I am looking for a tight base response not a BOOM BOX effect. lol 
IaM-Ray posted:Robert that looks pretty nice. Any chance of getting a pict from the back side? I have a Retrosound sub woofer self enclosed, self powered, that I am thinking of installing either under the rear seat (lifting the seat up) but you just gave me an idea. I would prefer to not have to build a box but maybe just do what you did but hand the unit there with only the speaker grill protruding if I can make a nice surround my goal simply to add depth as I am looking for a tight base response not a BOOM BOX effect. lol
I sure will. I had planned to crawl under the car for some photos but ran out of time on Sunday. I will get the car up on jacks stands, oh how I wish I had room for a lift, and get some photos of the enclosure in the cavity.
I'm a little bummed I didn't just do all of this myself but sometimes hacking into the car is best left to professionals.
No rush... Sometimes getting it done right is better looking in the end.
A lift... My quickjack is so nice if you can park your car in the garage you can lift it with a quick jack Love mine.
Robert - What's the name of the soundproofing that you used?
I've been using roof membrane as sound proofing for years. I couldn't remember when I posted about it, seems like just a few months ago. Then I found this post from 2002. A few month, 15 years, that's pretty close.
" When I was doing auto upholstery, several years back. We didn't use Dynamat because of its cost. We used Bituthene, it is a membrane roofing product used on commercial roof tops.
I swear that it is identical to Dynamat, only about 1/60th the cost. They are both rubber based, adhesive backed membranes. Bituthene is available at any roofing supply store, problem is you don't need a 100 foot roll. Perhaps by asking a roofer, you can score a few feet of it.
Bituthene is the trademark, generic name is, self-healing bituminous membrane.
-=theron"
Gordon Nichols posted:Robert - What's the name of the soundproofing that you used?
Peel & Seal from Lowes. I used this based on Brian's (longfella) success with the product when he did his whole car with it. It has it's own adhesive but using the heat gun for a few seconds and using a roller to press it on really did the trick. Not as thick as Dynamat but you couldn't even compare the costs. I used 3 1/2 rolls. Home Depot sells "Quik Roof" which is thicker but the Peel & Seal doesn't smell as bad.
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I should have added that I wiped down everything with acetone prior to sticking the roofing material down. On the fiberglass the acetone helped to get rid of the old glue and it took the oils off the pan.
Robert, can you show me how you "roll" your top up when I see you in SLO? For me it's like trying to fold fitted sheets...
Terry Nuckels posted:Robert, can you show me how you "roll" your top up when I see you in SLO? For me it's like trying to fold fitted sheets...
Yes I can but I thought for sure you'd be able to "roll" one better than me. LOL
Here's a few photos of my top rolled up. When I fold up the top I lay the rear flap w/ rear window across the whole center piece of material so it lays flat. I roll the front header bow one time and lay it on top of the rear flap so the latches don't touch the plastic window. When I go to lay down the whole top against the rear seat area I make sure the front header bow curve does not match the curve of the rear seat area. This seems to make everything a little tighter and it lays better. I used to try and match the two curves but it never seemed to lay right. When I made the curves opposite it all worked better.
You can still see it at SLO but I thought I give you a photo tutorial first.
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A 1.25" paper tube with a thick hand towel glued around it, lay that into the center fold of the plastic window to keep it from creasing or scratching.
Thanks, Robert. Still clueless. Maybe a video?
Here's some photos from under the car but they don't show as much as I'd of liked to be able to show you. It looks like it was made from exterior grade plywood as opposed to the MDF I initially talked about with the stereo shop. This is fine with me since structurally it is probably stronger. The supports were screwed tot he firewall and through the fiberglass in the seat back area. It looks like there were some supports that run from the front support to the back support also. The front of the box is flush with the inside edge of the backseat area and the sub-woofer is attached to the box. The larger piece of fiberboard that conforms to the curve of the seat area and covers the cutout in the fiberglass has a large enough cut out that it goes over/around the sub-woofer and the sub-woofer does not attach to the fiberboard at all. The fiberboard provides additional support to secure the box to the car.
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Progress continues on Project Bridget. We're closing in on the end of the smackem putty. Getting more into the sanding part now.
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Is she gonna be ready for Carlisle?
Good to see it's coming along, Ed. Don't rush it; keep the paint put away 'till it's ready. Al
Ed for President.
I mean, seriously: you sir, are the man.
Slow & steady, boys. I'm sure we'll be at Carlisle, and probably painted. But if I have to go in primer I'mma steal Cory Drake's idea and throw some metal flakes in the wet paint so there's a touch of rust.
Are you singing that Ichy, Gitchy, Goo song yet?