Nice work Stan. Still running that serpentine setup.
Yes, because of the dry-sump, but I think I'd get away from it otherwise. On my setup the idler is spinning at a ridiculous speed (obviously), but I think a lot about how fast the fan wheel itself is spinning as well, and it seems dangerous and like a waste of power.
I'm to the point of believing (really believing) that the belt slip of a tiny little V-belt turning a great big alternator and heavy fan on a normal cooling system is not a bug, but a feature. I've seen some data that would indicate that there's not much cooling gain after about 4000 RPM or so of engine speed (about the point where a stock setup starts to slip) with a serpentine belt.
You know...... If you took all that extra wire and bundled/balled it up in a random-sort-of-way and then crammed it up under the dash, it would look a lot like some of our cars.
The ECU is a Microsquirt... which I know sounds like gibberish, but which is a DIYAutotune product made for controlling motorcycles and the like. It doesn't have the capability of full sequential injection, so it's a batch-fire proposition. What it is is small and mostly weather resistant, so I can put the module in the engine bay, which really helps me with packaging. I mounted it under a cover up between the deck lid hinges under a cover to add a bit more protection.
I bought all the stuff from Mario Velotta (the DubShop), who is the ACVW EFI guru. Mario sells a Microsquirt harness that has a 5 ft or so wire on all 35 pins, about a third of which I'm presently not using.
The thing is, I don't know what I don't know. I may want or need some of those unused leads down the road so I cut nothing off. I routed the unused leads with the rest of the bundle inside the shrink-tube down to the very back of the car behind the Accusump I have mounted under the deck-lid latch. They're not wadded up or random, but they are unused and "extra" (at least for now). I have them in their own shrink-tube with the end running past the bundle, pinched off to keep them from grounding or shorting to anything else.
The current idea here is to have everything ready, then install the new 2234 I've had sitting on the stand for an embarrassing amount of time now, wire the terminations, then remove the throttle-bodies to light the new engine and break in the cam with carbs, reinstall the TBs and have @DannyP help me with the EFI light-off and tune. This will involve either flying Dan here or trailering the car there -- but either way, it'll be a logistical undertaking.
It's madness for sure.