wire harness less fuse block ?

I just opened the wiring harness and see it uses a simple terminal strip and no fuse block.

Seems simple enough to sub a proper fuse block for the terminal strip but WTF are they thinking

You sure its not just missing the fuses? Many still use the old VW open ceramic type fuses strung between the two posts - and only 6 circuits at that.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=ZX884289&zmam=73771597&zmas=4&zmac=78&zmap=ZX884289

what kind of wiring harness? Not many come with the block (unless it's the hot rod full kit type )

Vintage Speedster

Robert---just make a quick call to Kirk at Vintage for an answer---I know he will be happy to help you. Same as any of the other builders and suppliers of parts. The Vintage harness is a very popular one for guys wiring any make of kit so something is amiss.

I've always gotten great service and advice from Kirk and know you will too.

Good luck with your project!---Jack

Kirk supplies a harness with a pre-wired newer style spade style fuse block. I use the VS harness in all my builds.
The photo on the VS web site depicts the older ceramic VW style fuses. Give Kirk a call. ~Alan

Sounds like the same block/harness used in Vintage Spyders by Greg Leach. Do you need more than six circuits? I would guess in a car with electric windows, locks, and a radio. But not in a simple car without any of that extra stuff.

I just received a wiring loom from VS and it has a fuse block for the blade style fuses. I haven't installed it yet, but it looks fine to me. The instructions should be a big help, too.

"......The instructions should be a big help, too"
The purple wire is not in the drawing..cut the loop in the purple and attach both of these now cut `ends to the reverse switch on the transmission, the other end of the purple goes to the back up light. ~Alan

Thanks for the heads-up on the reverse light. I'm glad I posted that before I pulled the loom through the car and started terminating everything :)

Where do you mount the fuse block on your builds? Compared to the VS harness, my car has a rather elaborate homebrewed fuse/relay panel wiring job under the front bonnet on the firewall right now. The PO couldn't really tell me what he had done and there are pushbuttons everywhere in the car, so it's all getting yanked. I really want to pull the fuse panel in under the dash (away from the fuel) when I rewire it with the VS harness.

Also, have you ever moved the battery out of the front compartment? Regardless of where it winds up, I will use a small sealed Odyessey PC680 battery in my car. I'd really like to install it towards the center/rear of the car, tho. I know the big heavy battery helps balance the weight when placed at the front extremity of the car, but again, I'd like to get as many of the wires away from the fuel tank as possible. I'd also like to keep a full size spare under the bonnet, if I can.

Fuse block goes above the left kick panel.

The PC620 is a nice compact battery and can go in the engine bay near the left tail light similar to what Carey at Special Edition does. ~Alan

I like idea of putting battery in front of the front passenger side wheel well just below the headlight. Was it BarryH/Ziggy who did that? Would be great weight distro - as frequently "we" don't have a right seat driver. It's down on my to-do list as future mod. Don't recall if he ever posted photos - seems like there is room for a regular size battery in a marine box.

It is a nice idea to put the battery up front, just make sure you go to a welding supply shop for the cables. They can even put nice swaged ends on for you. I don't know the gauge you want to ask for, others do though. Just don't buy regular cables, the voltage/current loss will be too great.

Or mount your battery in the back with short, regular cables.

Ground it well to the frame, bare metal, conductive grease, and star washer underneath the cable. Use multiple grounds from the engine/trans to the frame. I have three.

And on the no start issue: Do you have 12v to the starter(heavy lead)? If so, do you have 12v up front at the fusebox? If yes, do you have it at the ignition switch? At the start terminal(50), switch turned to crank position? How about back at the starter(small connection at solenoid)? That is the order I would follow, process of elimination. Of course, check the battery first, also check for voltage from battery + to bare metal on chassis, this checks the ground cable.

I've just installed one of those tiny Odyssey batteries and I love it. It takes less than half the space of the original, and weighs only about 14 pounds. I'll try to remember to take a pic.

Here is a picture of mine again.

Mike, I'm looking forward to seeing your finished speedster ~Alan

Just a heads-up on the PC680. I really like these batteries and have used them in several cars, but they are almost impossible jump start without the regular automotive style lugs.

I must have the older style VS using VW ceramic fuses. I have never seen this type of fuse, so no wonder I am once more confused.

I got my Odyssey with the SAE posts so that I could use the existing cables. Mike's installation is incredibly neat, tho', and I may yet move mine somewhere out of the engine compartment.

A 6 gang fuse block is inexpensive should you choose to upgrade

Alan - I intend to sub the ceramic VW one for a modern type and simply switch the wires over