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Oh goody. Just installed the engine end of a cylinder head temperature gauge. Put the sensor under number 3 spark plug. Now I get to run the special thermocouple extension wire (can not cut or splice this wire) to the dash gauge. I forgot that the JPS wire harness disappears into a gob of syrofoam sealant near the rear torsion tube, and the wires magically reappear in a hole under the dash. I believe they travel through the frame enforcement tubes, but who knows? Hanging new wire below a flat floor pan doesn't seem wise. I considered the central tunnel, but the length is dicy. I think my routing is going to be through the heater tube (which is not in use). At the same time I'll also run another regular wire for the new oil pressure sensor.

Anyone have a creative way of routing add-on wires from engine to dash after assembly?
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Oh goody. Just installed the engine end of a cylinder head temperature gauge. Put the sensor under number 3 spark plug. Now I get to run the special thermocouple extension wire (can not cut or splice this wire) to the dash gauge. I forgot that the JPS wire harness disappears into a gob of syrofoam sealant near the rear torsion tube, and the wires magically reappear in a hole under the dash. I believe they travel through the frame enforcement tubes, but who knows? Hanging new wire below a flat floor pan doesn't seem wise. I considered the central tunnel, but the length is dicy. I think my routing is going to be through the heater tube (which is not in use). At the same time I'll also run another regular wire for the new oil pressure sensor.

Anyone have a creative way of routing add-on wires from engine to dash after assembly?
The only times I've run long wires through uncharted territory, I've taken one known long wire loose from the terminal end, attached a kite string to it and pulled the kite string back to the origin.
I attach the new wire to the old wire, and pull my kite string back to the terminus; bada-bing.
Re-attach the old wire to its original position, and remove the string. Put the new wire where you need to. It's a four-hand operation; might want to get a friend to help, and pull gently.
A test light will help ID a good candidate to pull.
The thermocouple wires can be spliced. You have to know the type of thermocouple used, and the original type of cable. Connections should be staggered, and soldered , using a solder suitable for electronics work. Insulate the splices well.

If you are in doubt as to the type of thermocouple, or cable used, find a company that deals in "process controlers" and they should be able to identify the type items you have, as well as furnish the cable needed.

If splicing your original cable, be aware that the cable has two wires of different metal alloys. This difference is what makes the system work,and you must keep track of which wire is which. Most wires are differintiated by color, and/or insulation type.

Hope this helps.....

Leon C.
Cory - you got it! That is a great idea! I even have a spray can of expandable foam to reseal the mess when I'm done. I'm pretty sure JPS runs their wires throught the frame rails, but they make a 90 degree corner going up to the dashboard, so the fish line idea is really needed.

Richard - I thought "badda bing" came from the movie Scent of a Woman with Al Pacino? Haven't watched the Sopranos yet, maybe my momma blocked them?

Thanks everyone, back to the creeper . . .
Cory's suggestion works great. Be sure to wrap the string connection with electrical tape a few inches long (but not bulky) to be sure it does not come apart when pulling back through. It helps to have someone on the other end to feed when you pull on the string. Wire "pulling lubricant" can really help, especially when trying to pull a few wires or through turns; available at hardware stores, a little messy, but easy to clean up.

Also not a bad idea to pull another string back through with the new wire, and tuck it away and leave it in place. Then, the string is there for the next new add-on.

Good luck.
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