Ok my fog lights are wired up, mounted and functioning. But I really need a new switch. Current switch is very cheap and just won't do. I do like the LEDs in the current switch so I might go with a more modern switch instead of a traditional pull switch. This is the switch I'm thinking about. My current switch has 3 wires going to it.
Black-ground
Red-power with 5 amp in line fuse to battery
White-to relay
How would I use these 3 wires with this switch?
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Or since my battery is hooked up directly to the battery it might be better to have the LED off when the fog lights are off.
That last version will do it.
I think I do like the second configuration with LED off when lights off. But I'm still confused about where to use the white wire that goes to my relay. That's really my only question. Hooking up black (-) and red (+) is pretty straight forward.
This is my harness. 3 wires to switch. Ground to car frame. Red to 5 amp fuse and battery. And the 3rd white wire to the relay. I actually was going to use the supplied switch but I accidentally stepped on it and crushed it. Ooops.
Phil, your diagram is a good one. I think you can get away with only a two prong switch as long as you take the Power from an ignition fed (on/off with key) power feed then the ground goes to the Relay(white). Once you turn on the switch it will activate the relay and then the lamps will go on. Here is another schematic. 
My current switch is grounded. So your switch does not need a ground?
I have no ground on the switch only at the relay as per the diagram.
Maybe @Gordon Nichols might have more insight but I don't think you need one. Do you see any need for a grounded switch Gordon? Ray
Thanks. So with my set up I guess I ignore the black ground wire. My Supply wire is red (white in your diagram) and my Load wire to relay is white (green in your diagram).
The black ground is forgotten and you feed the switch (power) and from the switch to the relay(white on your diagram) .. That should work.
"HOOOOOLD ON THERE, BABA LOUIE!
The reason you have a ground on the switch is to complete the circuit for the lamp in the switch. That's all. If you don't have a light in the switch, you won't need a ground for the switch.
Other than that, either of your diagrams will work.
You're just trying to close one main circuit (which is normally "off" or "open" if the switch is "off") but consider the switch lamp to be a "slave circuit" that parallels the main circuit.
So, looking at your first (blue base) switch, "C" = common (12V input) , "NO" = Normally Open (when the switch is off) and "NC" = Normally closed (when the switch is off). Just to the left of the "NO" tab is the tab for the lamp which gets connected to the "NO" tab. The wire from the relay also goes to the "NO" tab so that both the relay and lamp will energize (love that word) at the same time, when you push the switch to "ON".
The "-" tab on the right is simply a ground to complete the circuit to the switch lamp. Other than that, it serves no other purpose.
If you use a Ray-style switch with just two tabs, then wire it up just like his diagram and it'll work. Doesn't matter what goes to which tab - one side is the power source, the other side is the relay - doesn't matter which (unless your wires are short!). That's it.
Gordon, I'm dumb. I sent you a PM. Please be gentle.
That's how I felt when looking at an X-Ray of my lungs last week. They looked ok to ME! Little did I know.......
There are no dumb questions - Just un-informed questioners, about to become enlightened.
Check your PM, Dude!
I'd much rather decipher a chest X-ray than a wiring diagram. 
Hey Phil I managed to get under the dash today to take this pict.... if you can imagine this is shot from the floor of the car aimed towards the back of the car ... using the anatomical position of an acrobat 
so the small switch is in a small square box and velcroed to the lip of the A/C panel ... you reach with your hand follow the lip to the left of the radio under the panel and you can feel the switch to turn it on. No dash drilling, or panel to install etc.
OK. I promise this is my last post about my fog lights. Fabricating the mounts, wiring them up and installing the switch has been challenging. But I am finally done. Installed a nice Hella switch into the dash. Drilling a 3/4" hole in your dash takes a leap of faith. The little LED light in the switch comes on only when the lights are on even during the day. Thanks for everyone's advice.
Wait.......
You've got windshield washers, too? 
Nice job, Dude...... Looks Factory.
Well there you go... success.
