wiring for kirk's vs combi gauge

For the last twenty years I've been running with a Jumble Sale 356 Combi Gauge in the hole. The only things I bothered with it were the Red Generator light, Green Turn Signal light and the Instrument Background Light. I left the Fuel Gauge and Oil Temperature Gauges disconnected as aside from being 6 Volt they didn't work. Last year I bought a new VS Chinese Gauge from Kirk.

I'm puzzled by the wiring to it. Both the Fuel Gauge and the Temperature Gauge have three terminals. I'm used to two. That is for the Fuel Gauge - wiring Earth to Tank, wiring Sensor to Gauge, wiring Gauge to Fuse Box - and for the Temperature Gauge - wiring Sensor to Gauge, wiring Gauge to Fuse Box.

What's the third connection for?

I've looked at the Brian VanDeursen wiring diagrams (they're very helpful in the main), however for me they don't really seem to answer my queries.

I'd appreciate any help. I could of course ask Kirk, but he's usually busy and answers take a while.

Thanks.

Regards, Mike

Michael---here you go. This is the wiring diagram for all of the Vintage gauges. Good luck!

These might help too...

Mike---do you have one of the Vintage ignition switch?

OK. I have the Fuel Gauge working (Sort of.........). The wiring diagrams weren't that much use as my wiring more resembles a standard Type 1. I'll put a note on here later of which of the 3 terminals on the back of the Fuel Gauge itself that I used. The wrong selection of terminals led to the Gauge continually showing FULL. I don't think the Fuel Level is that accurate, but then I didn't expect it to be.

My next query in regard to this is the wiring of the Oil Temperature at the Sensor end. I'm attaching a photograph of the Sensor. It appears to be from a Rabbit (Golf here in England. The terminal on the Sensor is not a simple push-on male (TOO EASY), instead it's a little, round disc. Grrrrrrrr! What is everybody else with this wiring doing to connect the wiring to the sensor?

Thanks

Mike:

I've used those sensors in the past and either a 1/4" or 3/8" "fast-on" terminal will fit them, depending on the size of the disk. You slide the female fast-on onto the disk against the disk's edge, just like it was a male end. The disk stem is out of the way if the fast-on is on properly. They don't fall off if there is a bit of resistance when attaching.

gn

Fast-On Terminal? Would you have a photograph? I don't recognize the name....

Thanks.

here you go:

http://www.dig-des.com/images/Terminals/830%20Amp%20faston.jpg

the disk stem goes between the curls of this terminal.

gn

If a VS is anything like my last Intermeccanica, the fuel gauge will read full w/o modification. I bought all new and installed them myself and had the same problem. When taken to Henry, he bent the sending unit float in the the opposite direction. This made the gauge 75% accurate.

Thanks for that, Gordon. In England those are called Female Spade Connectors. Like this

http://www.autosparks.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1750

As shown in the photograph below, I connected it as you suggested - just slid it in at right-angles.

Anyway, the Oil Temperature Gauge SEEMS to be working. I took it for a 10 mile run last night and had it registering about 1/4 - though as the Outside Air Temperature was about -2, it's difficult to tell........ My CHT Gauge was showing about 330, I think.

Jack, thanks for sending that Wiring Diagram - I think that predates Kirk's new gauges. The diagram resembles what I had for my previous straight-forward setup - ie two terminals on each of the Oil Temp and the Fuel Gauge.

Mike, I looked long and hard at those diagrams before starting. However unless you have wiring the same as Kirk's provided loom, the colours don't help - also do they provide 3 connections to the Gauges? Unfortunately, I'm a 2 wire man! My wiring is a lot more basic than most kits - confusing, messy, bodged and basic! Just as matter of interest, I used a common power supply for both the Oil Temperature and the Fuel Gauge. Do you think I'll get any interference with the Fuel gauge?

I've shown how I connected anyway. If I used the third connector on the Fuel Gauge for either Power or Sensor, the Gauge showed FULL continually - maybe it's Earthed? I must use typed lettering next time!

Incidentally, there's no Earth Connection on the Combi-Gauge and it needs one for the Internal Lighting. I just connected an Earth to one of the Mounting Brackets.

Ben, I know what you mean about the incorrect fuel level, and as you say, I'll do some modifications to the rod connecting the float to the sensor. My other problem with the Fuel Gauge is that there's no Current Stabilizer ( T1 68> Stabilizer 93680

Hi Mike am in Cheshire fitting the same gauges ,how did you wire up the rev counter ? the 3 conections in the middle were do they go?I also have probs with fuel sender showing full but when Its empty & empty when full I think bending the rod the only option .Ive found a little componant it the back of my scraper beetle fuel gauge ,so Im gona try it to see if it takes the shake out of the new gauge ?

Oiliver, I only have a Combi-Gauge from Kirk at VS. I don't have either the Speedometer or the Rev Counter from him.

Off the top of my head, I would guess if there are three connections in the middle of the Rev Gauge, then they'll be EARTH, POWER (from the ignition) and Coil (where it actually gets the signal from). How long have you had the gauge? Any of those Rev Gauges can be real trial!!

The 'small component off the back of you scrapper beetle fuel gauge' sounds like the Stabilizer. Without it, your Gauge shall oscillate. Why your Fuel Gauge would read in reverse, I'm not sure........... maybe someone here can tell you. You are taking your wiring from the Fuel Tank Sensor to the Gauge, I guess....... Where are you taking your EARTH from? Have you tried reversing the wires? Bending the Float Rod would only affect the Fuel Level showing on the Gauge, I would have thought.

Maybe somebody shall think of something on this Forum?

Michael, if the gauge reads backward, don't sweat it. Take out the sender, bend the wire 180 degrees from where it is. That will reverse the movement of the wiper on the resistor and make your gauge correct. Measure the depth of the tank and eyeball where your float will be to adjust empty and full. I did mine with an empty tank and longer wires, tank out of car. It's a mechanical thing, don't change the wiring, ok?

That sounds helpful, Danny. I'll let you know how it goes.

Thankyou.

Cheers guys Ive already sorted the rev counter Ive put a blocking diode to stop the electronic ignition messing up ,BUT still got probs with fuel gauge a sender Ive tryed bending the float putting in resistors ,voltage regulators on an still no good its the same combi gauge as the photos shown .comb wot language for fuel is that?