Wiring Replacement

Hi Everyone!
Thanks for everyone's suggestions to my wiring problems. To recap I reversed the polarity when installing a new battery on my CMC, circa 1995 with a 1600 cc engine, and burned out the alternator wire. I replaced the alternator and burnt wires that were affected and the car started right up and runs well. Problem is, it won't shut off. when I turn it off it keeps running. Do you think I damaged the ignition switch and need to replace it? Other thoughts?
Thanks to all,
Al Stammers
Bloomsburg, PA

Al..... It might be the switch....It might also be a short some where else in the wiring....Once again, the only sure way to find it is to chase it down with a volt/ohm meter.....With the engine off, is there power being fed to the ignition with the key in the "off" position? That would be the first thing I would check, and work backwards from there......So much for my crystal ball...Good Luck.

You might also have the ignition crossed with the alternator D+ lead at the back of the car.

Leon's right - only way you'll find this is to search out the wires with a volt/ohm meter.

Curious, though....when the engine's not running and the key is "on", does the alternator light come on?

gn

Hi Gordon and Leon!
Thanks so much and I only have gauges so no alternator light. The voltage gauge does not work but it didn't before my goof either. With the voltmeter and the ignition switch off I should not be getting power to the alternator or starter solenoid, correct?
Thanks so much,
Al

"With the voltmeter and the ignition switch off I should not be getting power to the alternator or starter solenoid, correct?"

The BIG lead going to the alternator should have 12V at all times. The small lead on the alternator should have power only when the ignition is on.

The Big lead going to the starter should have 12V at all times (and it should connect at the starter at the same lug as the lead coming from the battery and alternator). When you turn the key to "Start" it energizes the solenoid through the small (18 ga.) lead on the side of the solenoid, which then provides power to the starter motor through the BIG lead.

Good luck, and keep asking questions - we'll get you through this.

gn

Hi Gordon!

I did what you recommended and the wires are all in the corect location. I get 12 V registering at the alternator and starter and the ignition wire on the alternator registers nothing when the ignition key is off, as well as nothing in the 'on' non-running position. So, I am thinking it is the ignition switch.

There are three wires going into the back of the tumbler, where I assume the ignition switch is located. My question is to replace the switch I assume I have to take the tumbler out, removing the switch from the steering column. There is only a quick connect located at the outlet where the wires come from the tumbler. It is a locking sterring column which I think is out of a 71 beetle (any way to tell)? Again, I assume I have to take the steering wheel off to replace the switch.

I believe this is the switch I ned to purchase to replace (picture located at http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?gkw=VW+Fastback+Ignition+Switch&gad=CKP7wboDEgjuUnZinSjHGBjtn_T8AyCjxe8p&makeid=800026@VW&modelid=1281293@Fastback&year=1968&cid=25@Ignition%20Parts&gid=4520@Ignition%20Switch

Would you recommend I try this next? Sorry for being so dumb about this.

Thanks so much,

Al

Al:

Before you go pulling the ignition switch out(a major PITA if there ever was one), find the wires that come out of it and try to trace the one which goes to the ignition coil. It may take a bit on digging, but try to find it. Then, turn on the key and see that it applies +12V to the coil. Turn off the key and see if it goes dead. If not, then separate the connection as close to the ignition switch as possible (I think there's a connector within 18") and test it again, but just at the pigtail coming from the switch. If it STILL stays hot all the time, then replace the switch. If it goes dead when off at the switch, then you've got a short somewhere between the switch and the coil and THAT's the problem.

gn

Wonderful Gordon!

Will give that a shot.

Thanks so much,

Al