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I don't have a clue what year or type my motor is, all I know is its a GEX rebuild 1776 from 1995 or so. How would I know if it's type one or type 2?

The exhaust is made by EMPI, it's one of the ones on this page, the "single quiet muffler" type.



http://www.gex.com/41exhst.htm

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Thanks Jim. That's what I originally wanted, but now looking at it without the bumper, I really want a different look, plus better clearance; I am eventually going to go 2 or 3 inches lower. Maybe this one, if the Tri-Mil doesn't fit?

http://www.800luvbugg.com/shop?frame=2.18.6483

One of the members here got this and liked it a lot, forget the name.
Hey Stephan - I now see what you are dealing with....Didn't want to lurk on site at work! I agree with Jim that the Tri-Mil will be more restrictive than the header and exhaust that you have now. It will be about 3-4hp less based on the test results that I have been looking at.

A single quiet hideaway muffler would be the way to go...it would tuck the muffler away from view. This might not be the exact muffler, but just to give you an idea.

http://www.vwparts.net/BP2556.html

Can't say if the tri-mil would clear your rear apron. I know others have had trouble clearing them and I don't think you would want to resort to cutting glass for this exhaust.

Just a thought - Mel
Stephan - seeing the muffler that Mel posted looks like the ideal solution for what you're trying to achieve. No fussing with R&R of your old exhaust, just bolt on and go.

Just a note - keep in mind that the collector flange on your EMPI system (the part that the muffler bolts to with 3 bolts/nuts) has the top exhaust bolt in the 1 o'clock position. Non EMPI flanges have a 12 o'clock position. So if you're keeping your existing exhaust collector, be sure the new muffler has the 1 o'clock bolt position.
I believe the Tri-Mil model you want for the Speedster is the one for an earlier (up to 1971) Type 2 Bus. That way it will clear the apron.

AC Industries lists this as fitting a Porsche Speedster replica:

http://www.acindustries.com/Catalog/OpenCatalog/CatalogSubCat.aspx?application=Volkswagen

Click on VW; then on 1968 (for example) and then click on Porsche Speedster replica.
Thanks for all the advice guys. I would be willing to sacrifice a couple of HP for a nicer looking rear and a deeper sound; I think the main problem I have with the current setup is that it's VERY visible now. Also, is it normal for the collector to be off center like that?

I really want to get rid of the current headers entirely. Mel, do you know if that is the Tri-Mil for the Bus or Beetle?
HOLY CRAP! This sucker is loud and nasty, I like it but definitely not for everyone. If I lost any HP, it's impossible to tell since the car now sounds so darn fast.

We had a weird issue the first time we fired it up, I was pretty stunned by the noise but more stunned with all the smoke! At first I figured it was just some of the cheap paint burning off the muffler, but the puddle of fuel under the car was my first hint that it was something worse! After hastily shutting it off we found a fuel leak at the T-junction just after the fuel filter, where the lines split off one to each carb. Very odd since we didn't do anything under the engine cover to cause it, and very lucky in a way since I would have definitely had an engine fire if I had been driving around like that oblivious.

Anyway, I ended up getting a bigger amp for the stereo. Before you could only hear music while driving around town (not on the freeway) but with the new pipes you hear nothing but VROOOOOM.

Jim, that was my favorite cartoon as a kid and the reason why my other "dream" kit car is a RSK 718.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/c/cf/Porsche_718_RSK_Spyder.jpg

That's a great idea about adding a baffle, but the angled tip would have to be cut off to get it in there, right?

If anyone wants the old pipes, they can have 'em. I think they were brand new when I bought the car, and the muffler is all scratched up of course.
" . . . but the angled tip would have to be cut off to get it in there, right?"

Nope, the baffles can be had in almost any length. Some packed with fiberglass or whatever, others just a series of holes in different patterns to interrupt the exhaust flow. Look around and you'll find one that's just right. The hot rod guys that wanna run ZOOMIES fit a short baffle into the end of each of the eight pipes. These are usually only three or four inch metal baffles held with a small bolt/nut.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2006266&TID=231000000&TID=231000000&productId=2006266&catalogId=10111

Trim an inch off of one of these and you're golden, or just search around for an alternative if you'd rather. Lot's of 'em out there.
Hi, been looking at this post and I am in the market for a muffler. I want one quiet!! It has a Monza on it now and it is real "blatty" not nice. I would go for the "Hideaway" offered on CB Performance at a good price, but nobody there can tell me if it will clear the rear valance. Looks good for the muffler but don't want to cut the rear for clearance. Anybody have experience. It is an 1834 w stock exchangers (i believe)

thanks, Jay

PS. the monza hits the body even tho it is raised somewhat.
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