Hi, Anyone selling a deck lid with louvers for a replica? 1957 Replica.
I don't know the maker of the kit, ... built in late 70's
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Hi, Anyone selling a deck lid with louvers for a replica? 1957 Replica.
I don't know the maker of the kit, ... built in late 70's
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Here's ad for better price from Rusty Tubs - $439
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/cla...etail.php?id=1122844
Thanks, guys!
I'll look into this, it looks like my only choice out there!
Search here there was a guy in KY that made them too. Carey at BECK/Special Edition has them too.
Awesome! Sounds great, I'll do my research on here and see what I can come up with; as well as reach out to Beck.
Thanks, again.
Be aware that there are slight radius differences between a CMC / FiberFab and a VS - JPS not sure about a Beck though. Alan
Good to know, thanks! I don't know who made my speedster, so I will be mindful of this issue. I'll also look on the forums to see if I can find any suggestions on the signs that can be used to identify the make of a kit.
Post some pictures of dash and trunk lid for identification. VINTAGE brand gauges and cast 1 piece alloy Hibachi grill are CMC give-a-way. But if 70's build - then FiberFab. Is there a non-Porsche crest in hood handle? CMC used SPEEDSTER CLASSIC crest.
Thanks for the tips -- Here's the vehicle: http://www.leftcoastclassics.c...eedster-replica-red/
I 'just' purchased it and am picking it up some time this week. You cans see why I want to change the deck lid.
Probably a CMC or FiberFab, but with gauges other than the typical gauges pictured above. Definitely not a Vintage or a JPS based on the dash trim.
Just cut that tumor off the engine lid, reglass and paint it and you will save yourself a lot of headaches with fitment of a different lid. Also you need to complete the engine compartment so you can't see the ground below.
Nice car .. all but the abnormal growth on the decklid...gotta wonder what they were thinking??
I was fortunate to find this louvered decklid from a member here and got a great deal on it. It is a Beck lid and fit my CMC like it was made for it. The louveres are a bit larger than those that rusty tubs offers and I thought about making a mold from it and offering them for sale but didn't get around to it. It came with the Beck grill as well but seemed flimsy to me so I stuck with the CMC hibachi. In the HOT New Mexico sun here, I could probably cook some burgers and dogs on it.
What Troy said, get some tins in there pronto. You want to keep the heat generated by the lower half of the engine away from the top half.
Thanks for the tips. I saw a lot of people comment about missing engine pans being a very bad thing. Once I get the car in my hands, I'm going to get the following after I verify this is the correct piece: http://www.sierramadrecollecti...ct_detail&p=3958
I believe you need tins for a VW not for a 356. Perhaps they are the same, drclock, Larry Jowdy or one of the other technically astute guys could better inform you.
Good point, thanks! I'll research those as well on the beetle sites.
Nice car .. all but the abnormal growth on the decklid...gotta wonder what they were thinking??
Right, I know! I'll see about finding a good glass guy and chopping that thing off, and while they're at it, adding louvers. It seems that's the popular choice from my research in the forums - use the deck you have and add 'em.
Has 914 gauges. The sierra madre piece is for a 356 $$$. You need VW rear engine tin with heater cutouts - $28 from CIP 1. Sure I have extra if you are near by. Order a 72" up bus engine H gasket for around sides and back. Probably couple other bits missing like pulley tim and deflectors below. Check the CMC build manual to see what the side and rear fiberglass (supplied by FF/CMC) look like. They can be made of Aluminum (my favorite), vinyl or sheet metal. Yeah - that wart would not be difficult to fix. Wonder if a luggage rack would hide it til the winter?
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductD...de=C24-043-119-527-B
Wow, guys! Thanks so much. I really appreciate it.
I'm in CA, and I think you're in FL, a tad too many miles apart; but just a tad.
I'll order those parts and do the research as you suggested!
I was thinking about getting a luggage rack to hide the wart, so I may be on the lookout for a decent one.
Oh - one curiosity that's killing me. I'm new to aftermarket steering wheels; guessing it is - Was wondering if anyone had any thought of where the steering wheel was from?
I want to replace it with a larger wooden wheel with the same 6 bolt configuration and there's a few I see with /similar/ 6 bolt configurations, but not too sure if I can just slap a new one on or if I need to get a conversion hub, ...
Thanks, again!
Looks like Nardi pattern to me -
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/cla...detail.php?id=941248
Grant is 5 bolt and Formuling France is 9 bolt.
You can seal the engine to body with a powder coated aluminum sheet the type that is used on enclosed cargo trailers....leave 3/4" space between the aluminum and VW engine tin then fill that gap with the mentioned VW bus "H" foam motor seal) You'll need to seal the windshield post to bottom aluminum pc where they cut the aluminum short. ( use Alex brand flat black latex caulk from ACE Hdw)
Where the floor pans are angle cut and lapped will need some sealing too...use NAPA brand seal sealer that fits into a cauling gun, run a bead and smooth it out with a 1" cheap'o paint brush. ~Alan
Do not buy the louvered deck lid from Rusty Tubs. I did, it didn't fit my CMC, and he refused to refund my $435. Do not deal with him under any circumstances. Be advised.
Alan, David - Thanks for the tips!! This thread has been a major reason to be supporting member!
You've all been so awesome.
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