I just noticed before installing my engine into my speedster build that my pressure plate is for a later style (no center ring) and my transmission is a early style (1970) and need the center ring pressure plate. See example. Does anyone have a spare/used Kennedy 1700lb Stage 1 Pressure Plate 200mm? I'll be at Carlisle on Saturday if anyone does and they are heading that way.
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I had a Kennedy 1,700# because back in the 1990's, when I was building my car, that was THE clutch to have.
It chattered from day 1and No amount of messing with the Bowden tube helped. When I pulled it three weeks ago it showed definite signs of material failure on one of the actuator arms (it was a 3-arm pressure plate). Made me really want a Sachs clutch, instead.
I contacted Carey at Beck about the Sachs clutches he uses and this was his reply:
I like the HD version over the stock version.
Somehow EMPI bought out SACHS or bought the rights to their name or something, so they all come from EMPI and their distributors now.
pressure plate is a Sachs 32-1236-B and throw out is a 113-141-165B
JBugs has a variety of Sachs clutch kits or you can order just the plate you want. Super-helpful on the phone, too. gn
Hi Gordon. Thanks for the insight and potential options on pressure plates. What minimum displacement engine size do you recommend for an HD pressure plate. I'm going to be installing an 1835 cc with dual 40 IDF weber carbs.
IMO, that engine's probably at the bottom of the HP range for needing a 1,700# clutch, as the engine is producing around 80HP, but it certainly wouldn't hurt.
But then, it all depends on how you drive, too. If you're constantly racing Miatas and Minis out of stop lights the the stiffer clutch might come in handy!
Remember that as you increase the strength of the clutch plate you also increase the force needed from your left leg to make it work.
Adding to my Kennedy clutch story, mine was a 3-finger style that has been discontinued and they haven't made since around year 2000. They now produce only diaphragm (sp?) versions so the problem I encountered shouldn't happen with those. Closer inspection showed that the main pressure plate spring, which back then was a big, spring steel disk, has a big crack in one spot which caused uneven engagement/disengagement and eventual failure of the disengagement finger by cocking it to one side when operated. Stuff happens.......
I installed a longer arm on the transmission to reduce the work my left leg had to do.
I had a Kennedy Stage 1 from 2002. It was a modern style diaphragm clutch and saw about 35,000 hard miles of use. Lots of hard launches, heavy road, autocross, and track usage and abuse.
When I removed it, the early clutch adapter ring was NOT running true. Some of the fingers were bent. So I replaced it with a Sachs HD clutch.
I did not have any clutch take-up issues as Gordon did, but it just didn't look right to me. The Sachs HD holds the 180 plus HP just fine, with the added benefit of being just a touch lighter in the leg. I would rate the Kennedy as normal strength needed, not heavy. The new one is a little easier than normal, you could almost say light.
I also purchased it under Carey's recommendation, and couldn't be more pleased.
I installed the same clutch model in the 2276 I built a few years ago, and he's happy too.
I have the Kennedy stage one mated to a Fidenza lightweight flywheel on my 911 powered replica and have had no problems. Seeing that I run a slightly modified Porsche 901 transaxle (4 speed converted to 5) I don't do any stoplight burnouts as first gear is the Achilles heel.