WTB: Side curtain window - Hardware only

I have everything else (plexi and weather stripping) - i just need the hardware to mount the plexi (assuming "L"-shaped brackets and hardware)

Anyone have a set for two windows (4 pieces)? Thanks!

these things: http://speedsterowners.com/library/cmcmanual2/images/cmc94.jpg

or if you can't see that one:
https://www.speedsterowners.com/library/cmcmanual2/images/cmc94.jpg

You can easily make these from a chrome "square U shaped" draw pull, back them up with chrome or stainless washers . Gordon Nichols and I have both done these.

Alan,
Any pics? I too am interested in making plexiglass curtains
Paul,
I posted several of the pics I have been collecting of different designs.

Gordon, you have these pics available ?

I used a long bolt like this.
http://speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=Ola+Miltorp&f=w3%2Ejpg
There's more pics in the photo section under the name "OlaMiltorp".

~WB

http://www. speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=Ola+Miltorp&f=w3%2Ejpg

works better.

Bill - did you do a 5 spd trans swap --- looks like some well made conversion pieces in your file. Don't keep us in dark --- see other technical thread on 5 spd conversion interest.

Thanks! What did you use for the female end of the post? the part that goes in the door top? it looks like a metal sleave?


http://speedsterowners.com/files/thmblist.asp?sf=%2FOla+Miltorp
https://www.speedsterowners.com/files/thmblist.asp?sf=%2FOla+Miltorp

http://speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=Ola+Miltorp&f=w4%2Ejpg
https://www.speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=Ola+Miltorp&f=w4%2Ejpg

http://speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=Ola+Miltorp&f=w1%2Ejpg
https://www.speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=Ola+Miltorp&f=w1%2Ejpg

http://speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=Ola+Miltorp&f=w3%2Ejpg
https://www.speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=Ola+Miltorp&f=w3%2Ejpg

http://speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=Ola+Miltorp&f=w2%2Ejpg
https://www.speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=Ola+Miltorp&f=w2%2Ejpg

http://speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=Ola+Miltorp&f=w6%2Ejpg
https://www.speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=Ola+Miltorp&f=w6%2Ejpg

You can buy those sleeves at most hardware stores. I got some at Lowe's when I made my wooden door top trim.

Thanks for the reference Bill and the post Paul. My collection of
ideas is getting bigger. My intent tends toward the slider design.
But tucking in an aircraft vent or hardtop type vent may find it's
way into a prototype.

As supplied by CMC, I thought they were the copper electrical ferrels for 240V wires. Appears the chromed water feed pipes to toilet (or sink) would work too - the one end has a nice flare.

The tubes I got from CMC are aluminum and look a bit crude.

I have spent a lot of time at Lowe's and didn't find anything in the electrical dept. or the plumbing department. Maybe I am not imaginative enough when I am looking.

It would help if someone could be very specific about what works.

Can anyone say what was used in the picture?

Thanks.

well - home depot here i come. thanks all.

Michael,
I believe Ola's car (pictured) is in Sweden.
Probably a whole different experience in their
"Lowe's" isles. But how about IKEA?

While Ola lives in Sweden, they have a version of Lowe's and Home Depot called DIY.....

He's using a cut-to-size cold water feed for a faucet, with a nylon spacer pressed onto the window support (because there's a mismatch between the water feed ID and the window support OD)

I used the ferrules provided by CMC, which are 5/16" ID aluminum. My support (which looks almost exactly like Ola's because I copied it) is a 5/16" X 24 stainless steel bolt with the head cut off. Then what's left is bent a few times until I got to the window angle I wanted. The hardware stack-up is as follows: a regular nut (locktited), fender washer, rubber washer, plexiglass, rubber washer, fender washer, acorn nut (locktited).

Looks classy and works great. Many thousands of miles at Turnpike speeds with zero failures. Be aware, though, that I'm only using the Ola style on the front - on the rear, I used the original CMC triangle, although there's no reason why you couldn't use the Ola style front and rear.

I can take pictures if you like, but they look just like Ola's (the one Bill linked to).

gn

Vintage sells them for a buck a piece.

Gary - vintage sells 'em for $60 for the set (was just told this by VS).

Gordon,

Why did you use Ola style in the front and original CMC triangles in the rear?

Wolfgang those pics aren't mine, they are Ola's. I don't have any good pics of my side windows, so I posted Ola's pic. I copied his idea also on both ends of the window. Works great.

I was just refering to the bushings for the door tops.

Bill - Sorry, I realized that after I posted msg and read next few postings --- unfortunately "WE" can no longer go back and edit prior posts to correct errors (IMHO those who donate should have at least a 24 hour grace edit period - vice 20 minutes). Wish those 5 spd conversion parts were available state side for a reasonable cost!

Mike: Why did I use one mount on the front and a different mount on the rear?

Simple: I'm a cheap Yankee and I was in a hurry. I suppose it might look a little weird, but nobody has ever said anything and they work great (and look pretty clean, too).

I changed the front ones because, when I was installing my top I re-worked the leading edge of the side window quite a bit to seal better (which it does) and that required a different angle for the leading edge which was not possible with the CMC/VS/etc. mount (they are fixed angle).

There's enough flex in the 1/8" Lexan to work well for my application - if I used 1/4" thick Lexan I'm not sure it would all work, but the 1/4" stuff would probably be an overall better choice. Remember that I trailer up and down the East Coast at 75 - 85mph for hours on end and I wanted the side windows to seal very well and not pop outward when passing a trailer truck at speed (which is what they used to do). Now they hang in there and I never worry about them.

Maybe someday Bill and I should send some micro-brew over to Ola as a royalty payment ;>)

gn

Gordon,

This brings up another concern.

Because of the fixed angle of the CMC/VS triangle post things, it seems like the angle at which the tubes go into the door tops is critical.

What would be a good way to manage this when installing the tubes?

I thought about making oversize holes and putting something like epoxy putty around the outside of the tubes. Then I could insert the side curtains and adjust the angle before the putty hardens. The big flanges on the Ola tubes would help with this. I looked at water supply tubes again today. They look similar to Ola's, but his look smoother and better finished.

The spacing is critical too if the posts fit tight in the tubes. Steel Speedsters used one oval tube to allow a little tolerance.

Mike:

Because of the fixed angle of the CMC/VS triangle post things, it seems like the angle at which the tubes go into the door tops is critical.

Not really. I (and many others, I am sure) simply drilled down through the door top trip piece as straight as I could with a hand drill and that was that. The gaskets around the outside of the side "glass" will flex enough to make up any differences.

What would be a good way to manage this when installing the tubes?

I thought about making oversize holes and putting something like epoxy putty around the outside of the tubes. Then I could insert the side curtains and adjust the angle before the putty hardens. The big flanges on the Ola tubes would help with this.

I don't know of anybody who did what you propose. Everyone just drills the hole so the tube is a press fit so the tubes don't pull out. As I wrote above, going to a larger ID tube and messing with spacers is unnecessary, IMO. Just get pegs and tubes that allow the peg to slide in and out without binding after the tube is installed, that's all.

I looked at water supply tubes again today. They look similar to Ola's, but his look smoother and better finished.

Yeah, his look pretty flush when installed, don't they? A water supply tube will be slightly belled, so maybe we need to visit a local hardware store and wander around a bit and report back - good thing for tomorrow, and/or you can check out McMaster-Carr online......You could also take the water-supply tubes and simply put them in a fixture to flatten the end with a hammer (be creative).

The spacing is critical too if the posts fit tight in the tubes. Steel Speedsters used one oval tube to allow a little tolerance.

Again, the spacing is only critical if you're trying to use windows from someone else with the support pegs already attached, OR if the eg is too tight a fit in the tube - they should easily slide in and out. If you're installing everything new from the get-go, then install the tubes first. Center the tubes 2-1/4" from each end of the door trim (that will put them 22" apart on the trim and glass), and then match the peg spacing on the window to the tube positions by first setting the pegs in the installed tubes, then attach the plexiglass to the pegs, carefully fitting it into the opening space so that it looks "right".

True, the front tube on a steel Speedster is oval shaped, but that's just to get the pegs in and out easier given a somewhat stiffer side window assembly on the original car. I've never seen the need for that much "give" on my car with the round tubes and more flexible side windows. Simply pull up on the side window while giving it a little jiggle and it comes right out. No biggie......

I dunno about the straight tubes thing. I measured mine at 10 degrees when I did the door top pieces. Luckily Mike Lempert had an adjustable drill press to get it right. I DO believe that the angle is important.

On my car the tubes are separate from the ferrules on the doors. The tubes came from Lowe's but the nice aluminum ferrules were courtesy of Carey Hines. I think I have a couple of pictures in my gallery.

Gordon,

It wasn't the flatness of Ola's tubes I was commenting on. They looked much more finished or polished, with a rounded outer edge. They looked like they had a nice chrome finish.

I haven't looked at the plastic pieces for some time. I seem to remember them being pre-drilled for the triangular pieces. That's why I thought I had to be careful about the spacing of the holes drilled into the door top.

Lane,

I looked through your pictures. I didn't see a close view of your side curtain tubes. They looked different in the 2007 & 2006 pictures.

Can you be more specific about what you used from Lowe's?

A close up picture would be great.

Thanks.

Here is a close-up of the ferrule. If you look closely, you can see the top of the separate sleeve in the hole. I found the sleeves in the fastener section at Lowe's. They're about 5/8" to 3/4" long and I don't remember the inside diameter. You'd need to check it against your hardware anyway. I glued them in with Gorilla Glue.

Jim, my plexiglass side window project was put on hold b/o business and travel.
I'm going to be busy again this month and will have to go with the originals to Morro Bay.
So, unfortunately, not much in the way of hands on help to you before Morro.
I did find VW vent latches (not cheap) and clear plastic piano hinges. All that is left is to
mangle a few prototypes on the learning curve when time allows. There is a specialty plexiglass source in Santa Ana I found on the net (as opposed to Lowes, etc.) where glues and overstocked pieces can be found. My SOC photo file has a collection of every design I have run across which may be of some help to you.

VS just sent me a nice looking set of aluminum side curtain sleeves that have a rolled machined edge.
For the mounting hardware, I use a chrome 3" chrome draw pull cutting the one short leg off, it can be bent to the angle you need for the plexi to set correctly ...this works well. ~Alan

Alan,

Are the sleeves what VS calls "side curtain inserts" for $1.00 each on the website?

Alan, Do you have a picture to post for comparison with Michael McKelvey's above in this thread?

Yes... VS calls "side curtain inserts" for $1.00 each on the website.

Pic: I can do so tomorrow and post, I've been up for nearly 36 hrs and had it ....nite!

Ah, HA!

So THAT's how he gets so much done.....

The guy doesn't sleep!!!!

beileve it or not, i hunted home depot top to bottom and found the perfect thing for recptical on the door. It's a chrome metal press in bed frame caster holder. it's perfect size and fits a bolt perfectly and looks OEM. i was about to give up and buy the VS set and found this.

Paul,

What area of the store are these in?

Thanks.

isle 12 left and side. LOL. i doubt you're shopping at the same store as me, just ask for these things. each store would likely be a little different.

i think it was on the periferals of hardware.