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I've been looking to buy a Speedster kit that is not started(or mostly so). I live in Florida and would prefer not having to ship from west of the Mississippi. If anyone knows of one, please advise.
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Former Member
I've been looking to buy a Speedster kit that is not started(or mostly so). I live in Florida and would prefer not having to ship from west of the Mississippi. If anyone knows of one, please advise.
Disclaimer - NOT MINE - I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT IT!
The $2k price and near Pensacola sounds like a potential deal for you -
http://pensacola.craigslist.org/cto/821291787.html
The $2k price and near Pensacola sounds like a potential deal for you -
http://pensacola.craigslist.org/cto/821291787.html
And a nice 359 for under $10k finished -
http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/831070107.html
http://miami.craigslist.org/mdc/cto/831070107.html
Former Member
hot dammmm that $2K one is a steal!
Former Member
The Pensacola kit was listed under an incorrect telephone number and Craigslist has not responded to email contact. The person who answers the telephone indicates the number of callers may cause him to go into sales of kits, though.
Actually, the one is Pensacola is a pretty good deal. I just got back from looking at it and buying it. It doesn't have a subframe though. It appears that it was a flood vehicle and the salt water did a heck of a number on it. The subframe was removed and is completely rusted away. All of the trim and any other metal is shot. The body is still solid though. Can't determine if it is a Vintage or a CMC though. Overall it looks rebuildable with lots of time and elbow grease. The '67 bug pan will still need to be chopped. The tires are new, but are 205-65s and don't look like they will fit the body. It should look pretty nice sitting in the garage next to my widebody project.
Jim
Jim
Make sure you tell the wife that I had nothing to do with it! No sub frame - That explains the weird roll bar like structure on the '67 chassis and the spacers in the door frame of the body! The engine looks clean. And I thought you were culling your projects!
Getting rid of a few of the projects was the original idea. It only lasted a little while. The wife will find out tonight. I will probably be sleeping in the garage for the next couple of weeks. The '67 frame was actually under a bug that someone hacked up for a 'vert wantabee. The engine seems to be in good shape. I'll probably start messing with it this weekend and see how it runs. The whole thing will need to be rebuilt from scratch. But oh well, it can keep the other one company while waiting to be finished.
Jim, your speedster illness has far exceeded mine :) ~ Alan
OK! So now we have TWO guys on here that need some serious help with their mental disorder known as Speedsteritis!! :-)
Jim:
Maybe you could make a Hot Tub out of it??
Maybe you could make a Hot Tub out of it??
Gordon,
I was leaning more towards a trailer and loveseat.
By the way, is Chris adapting the Audi engine to be used with the VW pan or is he using a different frame setup?
My plan is to build a plain-jane traditional one for the wife and go all out with the widebody with some sort of rediculous engine combination.
I was leaning more towards a trailer and loveseat.
By the way, is Chris adapting the Audi engine to be used with the VW pan or is he using a different frame setup?
My plan is to build a plain-jane traditional one for the wife and go all out with the widebody with some sort of rediculous engine combination.
Jim,
If you only knew the half of it.......
If you only knew the half of it.......
Jim:
The last I knew (and things have a habit of changing mid-stream around here), Chris was going with the Audi 1.8 mated to a VW transaxle (so the engine hangs off the rear of the tranny).
Weight is slightly less than an aircooled and it just squeaks in there. Radiator up front. Revamped turbo location for clearance.
gn
The last I knew (and things have a habit of changing mid-stream around here), Chris was going with the Audi 1.8 mated to a VW transaxle (so the engine hangs off the rear of the tranny).
Weight is slightly less than an aircooled and it just squeaks in there. Radiator up front. Revamped turbo location for clearance.
gn
Gordon,
I would be interested in details about radiator location and front body modifications to make it work. I have a 13b rotary sitting in the garage that is one of the engine options for my widebody that I have been kicking around. My concern was figuring out the radiator location and being able to get enough air flow to keep the water temperatures down.
I would be interested in details about radiator location and front body modifications to make it work. I have a 13b rotary sitting in the garage that is one of the engine options for my widebody that I have been kicking around. My concern was figuring out the radiator location and being able to get enough air flow to keep the water temperatures down.
We're still noodling on it, but those that we've seen (Special Edition's car at Carlisle) had the radiator mounted on a rearward angle between the front bumper mounts. I didn't get a super-good look at it, but I don't remember any holes or slots in the nose of the body but there may have been a small scoop on the bottom of the radiator to direct air, and I believe that they removed some of the fiberglass where the battery is mounted in the front to provide for air flow. I believe the radiator had an intregal electric fan. I also remember seeing the filler back in the engine compartment. Hoses were run inside the tunnel. If you're fabbing from scratch, maybe copper pipes through the tunnel would be cool, with hose couplings at each end.
The other option would be to mout the radiator at a forward angle on the passenger side of the engine bay as SAS does it, with the fan blowing donward. You could scoop air from the forward portion of the rear passenger wheel well. Hoss' car has something like that - when he drives over dry, dusty ground it kicks up quite a dust cloud from that side!
The other option would be to mout the radiator at a forward angle on the passenger side of the engine bay as SAS does it, with the fan blowing donward. You could scoop air from the forward portion of the rear passenger wheel well. Hoss' car has something like that - when he drives over dry, dusty ground it kicks up quite a dust cloud from that side!
Former Member
Here's one on TheSamba.com:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=637099
Bet you can run him down some on price. It is in Ohio.
Fred Adler
San Diego
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=637099
Bet you can run him down some on price. It is in Ohio.
Fred Adler
San Diego
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Former Member
Can anyone tell me what part availibility is on Fiberfab kits(windshields, etc).
Roger
Try MG Magic in Florida ( Brad ) - they have all the old CMC stock for the Speedsters. I posted their phone # someplace a week or so - no web site - only phone # or email - he will get back to you.
Dale
Try MG Magic in Florida ( Brad ) - they have all the old CMC stock for the Speedsters. I posted their phone # someplace a week or so - no web site - only phone # or email - he will get back to you.
Dale
Roger:
First, don't dispair.....Many, if not all of the parts on a fiberfab/CMC car are the same as used on many other Speedster kits, not to mention on the original steel Speedsters.
While those parts may be available from MG Magic, most of us have gotten our replacement parts from other sources like Tweeks, Mid-America, Performance Auto, Stoddards, CB Performance, Cip1 and so on.
What it comes down to, is tell us what part(s) you're looking for and someone on here will probably have a cost-effective place to buy it. In the meantime, check out this web page for a list of a lot of different sites for a lot of different things:
http://speedstershop.com/viewtopic.php?t=203
Windshields are readily available, and usually in the $200-$300 range, depending on source and tinting.
BTW: Several of us are currently building older CMC (formerly Fiberfab) kits and should certainly be able to offer build tips and parts help.
Good luck! Gordon
First, don't dispair.....Many, if not all of the parts on a fiberfab/CMC car are the same as used on many other Speedster kits, not to mention on the original steel Speedsters.
While those parts may be available from MG Magic, most of us have gotten our replacement parts from other sources like Tweeks, Mid-America, Performance Auto, Stoddards, CB Performance, Cip1 and so on.
What it comes down to, is tell us what part(s) you're looking for and someone on here will probably have a cost-effective place to buy it. In the meantime, check out this web page for a list of a lot of different sites for a lot of different things:
http://speedstershop.com/viewtopic.php?t=203
Windshields are readily available, and usually in the $200-$300 range, depending on source and tinting.
BTW: Several of us are currently building older CMC (formerly Fiberfab) kits and should certainly be able to offer build tips and parts help.
Good luck! Gordon
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Former Member
We replaced the windshield on our Fiberfab with a Speedster windshield with no problems and ordered and used a clutch cable from Vintage Speedster--after much frustration it is installed and working fine. The installation problems were with the tube not the cable. I suspect that most Speedster parts --while more expensive--will work fine.
Nancy
Nancy
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You're absolutely right!
Most of the stuff underneath is stock Volkswagen except for the slightly shorter clutch and accelerator cables and a lot of people buy stock and shorten them themselves.
While a lot of real (read that genuine steel) Speedster stuff will fit (even though it may be pricey) some does not fit, too. If in doubt, post a question on here and someone will probably be able to offer guidance.
gn
Most of the stuff underneath is stock Volkswagen except for the slightly shorter clutch and accelerator cables and a lot of people buy stock and shorten them themselves.
While a lot of real (read that genuine steel) Speedster stuff will fit (even though it may be pricey) some does not fit, too. If in doubt, post a question on here and someone will probably be able to offer guidance.
gn