Skip to main content

Hi! I am considering a speedster and I am wondering if it is better to go with heater boxes or eliminate them and put in a gas heater. Any input about cost and ease of installation is appreciated , also are the HB's safe? I have read here that HB's don't last too long and are not very effective .THANKS IN ADVANCE TOM WEIDER
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Tom, the general consensus is that if the speedster is already made it is probably not worth the effort putting a gas heater in. Go with the heater boxes. If you're getting it built new, well, that's another story. I had a 1970 Beetle, with a gas heater and heater boxes. I loved it. When it was cold out I put on the gas heater to warm the interior up and then once the motor warmed up I turned off the gas heater and used heat from the heater boxes. If I was stuck in traffic, and I wanted more heat, I just turned the gas heater back on.
Ron
What Stan is indicating is this subject has come up a lot and maybe you want to "Search The Forum" for this subject....I believe George once said his new IM was about 4500 extra for the gas heater, but this figure may have been just parts I really don't know.

At the bottom of the first forum page with the different categories you can find the "Search" feature....it works really well for research on items like this

Have Fun
Tom,

Here's the deal- you want heat? Good luck. A pan based car leaks air from a lot of different places- under the dash, between the back of the pan and the body behind the front seats, up the tunnel, in the soft-top around the side curtains- everywhere. Heater boxes are great in theory, except that they rely on the engine cooling fan to drive heat into the cabin, and they are supplied with 100% outdoor (engine compartment) air. The engine has to be fully warmed up to make much heat, and if your engine doesn't have a thermostat (and most don't), forget about warming up unless the temperature is over 20 deg outside.

Gas heat would be great- if you are building a car new I would definitely do it. If you aren't, I'd forget the idea. I've even explored the idea of buying a Webasto pre-heater (it's like a little gas or diesel fired boiler) and fabricating a coolant system to feed a heater coil in the cab (don't bother- it would cost over $2500 to retrofit). I've thought of installing an oil cooler in the engine compartment and feeding the discharge air into the heating system ductwork. Recirculating cabin air through the heater boxes would be great, but would require considerable lengths of ductwork, all outside, and all subject to cooling the inlet to the heater boxes.

The first order of business is sealing air leaks- you could have a camp-fire in the passenger seat next to you, and if you have air whistling through the cabin, you're still not going to be warm. I went to a considerable amount of expense to have a hardtop built for my car- it leaks as badly as the soft-top, and cannot be easily modified to be made water/ air tight.

The point here is the same one I had alluded to initially- if you only knew what most long term owners in colder climates have gone through to get an extra couple of weeks out of these cars, you would be stunned. If you live in a cold climate, no matter what you do, you are not going to have good heat in the sense that you are used to in any car built since 1960 (with the exception of air-cooled VWs), unless you go to considerable time and expense.

All this has been covered many times in the forum. The suggestion to search for heat related posts WAS informative, and meant to be helpful. My advise- either pay Henry at IM $35K for a nice roadster with gas heat- or just figure on putting the car up in November, and getting it out in April. I wish I had all the money I spent trying other alternatives back- I'd buy a nice 2110 from Pat Downs and take my family on a vacation with the difference.
Stan! Thank you for all the info on heat. I did read almost all the posts and have come to the same conclusion that you did , pretty tough to heat a car with poor finestration. Maybe I should refocus on a closed car. I had a 356c Coupe in 1964 and as I remember it was not easy to heat either especialy when temps got down around 20F. I even had a BERNZ-O- MATIC propane catalytic heater I used for heat Thank you again for the last post. TOM
I'll try to post a few pictures of our heat setup w/ heater boxes this weekend. Uing the standard 36hp shroud without the air vents, I run a high speed blower directly to the heater boxes. It can be set up to draw air from outside, or routed to drow air from the cabin. You can have heat blowing while sitting still, and you're not robbing any air from the engine. Although it's still VW heater box heat...:)

CEH
I seem to remember tearing around in my faithful (never left me stranded) '57 Beetle sedan during the winter, with a windshield ice scraper hanging from the rear view mirror so I could use it on the INSIDE of the windshield!! I also remember putting a nail in the flap at the rear of the air outlets (aft of the heater boxes - the flaps actuated by the "heat control knob" (when it worked)) to hold them up all-the-way-closed to insure I got as much heat as possible in the Winter (which still wasn't much - remember that ice scraper).

Oh yeah! In the Spring, you had to pull the nails out, open the flaps ALL_THE_WAY and try to close off the heat (and defrost) outlets in the cab so you didn't die from the heat in the Summer!

The heat worked great - just like in a Speedster - they just had their seasons backwards!

gn
I have to admit that i'm tempted to install an air heater behind the rear seats where my battery is currently installed.

I could move the battery up front (as I don't carry a spare wheel) beside the brake servo, and then have plenty of room for a 12" x 5" x 5" heater (webasto airtop 2000 or eberspacher (espar) B2) in its place.

The heater would sit on a plate where the battery tray is presently located. Combustion and exhaust air would be ducted from under the car around the transaxle, and cockpit heat could be routed to the existing sill ducting for heat to the feet and demisting. Air to heat could come from the cockpit or outside (same side as combustion air?)

This is pretty much what Chesil do in their factory built cars where they include auxilary heat....

Any thoughts?

Busy days guys, sorry I'm slow on posting.

This one is mounted on the rear "shelf" to draw air from outside. It could also be placed on the back wall, to draw air from the cabin.

Eddie, it would depend on how much space you have. I've seen some replicas that don't have the space in the engine compartment, but the general idea could probably be adapted to any make.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • speedster in2 009
Eddie,
That particular blower is a 2 speed.
I ran across one on the JC Whitney site a while back, don't remember if it was 3 speed though... (about $100 but looks like it was designed with the same intentions?)
Mounted like you describe should work fine. Tha fan is a little noisier when drawn from the cabin, but recirculating the air helps a little too.
CEH
Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×