yeah, I have issues

I can't figure it out, but it sounds like a "flutter" coming from the engine. I am not sure that I have full power either, as it is not as quick in first and second gears. The closest sound that I can relate it to is... if you were driving in a sedan and one window was open a little. A flutter sound emanates because there is no where for the wind to go. But as soon as you open another window the sound is gone. The noise/sound is actually troubling on the ear drums too. Anyone got any suggestions? It is a 2.0l 914 engine. My first uneducated guess is that I have dropped a cylinder, but it does not seem like it at 60mph.

Pull off one plug wire at a time to see if you have a drop in RPM replace it and go to the next plug wire etc, if not that is the offending hole...it's a place to start anyway.

Dang, Kevin, if your car is out of commission who am I gonna have to Speedstah-cruise with? Oh yeah, I believe I've solved that alignment issue you pointed out.

Let's hope Jake Raby jumps in.

Compression check?

Or a lose rocker arm on a intake valve?

Follow Alan's advice, but then go and swap out the distributor rotor, cap and plug wires (unless you can isolate it to one cylinder/plug wire set, then just get a new plug wire for that cylinder). Get a good set from Taylor and that should cure it.

This might be waaay off the mark, but have you looked at your fan lately?

If you have a IR temp gun you could take a few temp readings on each exhaust tube near the head exhaust ports with the engine up to running temp. A contact thermometer would work also. The coldest reading would be your problem cylinder. Cold cylinder could mean you have a plugged carb jet, bad plug, bad plug wire, etc. Look at this way, if the cylinder is not getting any fuel or spark... you now have a cylinder that is acting like an air compressor. Have you ever heard the flutter sound of an air compressor? Post some more details ie carb type, ignition system

Joe

Cory wrote: "have you looked at your fan lately"

Good point. If you have an earlier, 36 hp fan shroud with the modulator ring on the inlet side (the side of the engine closest to the cockpit) it may have become weak or the actuator mechanism is trashed. That would allow the ring to "flutter", especially noticeable when traveling at a constant speed in the 40-50 range.

Reach over the top of the shroud, and you might (if it has one) feel the ring just inside of the fan inlet opening. It should feel fairly stiff and only move with very firm hand pressure. If it moves readily, then check out the actuator mechanism.

I can't recall ever seeing a similar failure on the later fan shrouds (the ones with the air vanes inside at the bottom).

Kevin:

I re-read your original post, and my post above on the 36 hp fan shroud probably doesn't apply (I bet you're runnig a DTM, right?)

So that, along with the perceived lack of power in 1'st and 2'nd gets us back to:

Follow Alan's advice, but then go and swap out the distributor rotor, cap and plug wires (unless you can isolate it to one cylinder/plug wire set, then just get a new plug wire for that cylinder).

OR: go get a good set from Taylor and that should cure it. Try a Taylor 74691 set; 8mm silicon "Super-set", and made for an air-cooled VW. Available thru Carquest dealers, or a speed shop in Greer (where-ever THAT is).

Nice knees, Gordon :>)

ECB

Bruce ...just concerns that he's "kneedy!"