Z F Steering Box

From what I've read, the Z F Box is progressive, i.e. that it is less sensitive in the neutral position (straight ahead). It becomes more progressive as the steering wheel is turned. The reult, of course, is that a slight turn of the steering wheel in the neutral position does not cause the car to wander much in either the right or left direction. So, what about the replacement VW box, is it progressive? If not, is the Z F Box a direct replacement?

Richard Saccocio

Richard,

I saw a reference to ZF boxes in the suspension article and had questions myself. I was hoping your post would shake out some information. Just so you know; you

It looks like its me and you Scott. Maby, the guys out there are not as well informed as we thought - or were led to believe.

It takes 3 interested parties to warrant a response that is not from a smarta**. See if you can find another interested party....OK, I'll bite and be interested too.

I'm really beginning to wonder about this site. Perhaps it's because too many purchases are turn key. Of course, the engine compartment must be sealed. Of course, a 2.1 liter engine with all the power mods needs more cooling than a stock 1.6 - more horsepower, more waste heat. If you run a freeway transmission, of course, you will have less power and torque in forth gear. You are not supposed to warm up any engine-you need to get the oil flowing but not by increasing the rpm in neutral. Of course, you should not burn rubber with a cold engine either. Can't remove a headlight, water in the headlights, light switch wiring - what is going on out there?

Obviously some of you are very knowledgable and have hands on experience, but the others? A Speedster is not a Chevrolet. It's a highly modified component car using mostly VW parts with a powerhouse engine. I can't imagine how anyone buying a Speedster would expect it to be completely trouble free. Even the original 356 was not a car that you could gas and go. I suspect that too many owners bought their Speedsters without actually knowing what they were buying.


I certainly don't claim to be an expert on Speedsters, but I certainly knew what I was getting into. That's why I did not give up my second car when I finally put my Speedster on the road. The original 356 handled like no other car and shifted like no other car. The Speedster is no 356. But, it's not a VW either. My personal goal with my Speedster is to get the handling as close to a 356 as reasonably possible - but, with more power. Thus, my curiosity about the ZF steering box. Since ther are no takers for my inquiry, I guess that I'll just have to get a ZF box and see what happens.

Richard, are you saying that because no one has an answer to your specific question, we

Richard, are you saying that because no one has an answer to your specific question, we

It could be that only a few people really know the answer to your question and they are busy doing other things right now and have not even seen your question. But your response will probably keep even them from responding.

There are several different types of mechanical approaches in worm/sector steering boxes (tapered peg which tends to wear or roller on the arm, different types of worms with different rates, etc.) so it will depend on which box you use.

IMO why bother? The only reason VW used them was that they were cheap, and the only reason Porsche used them is that they were both cheap and lightweight.

If you want something that works a lot better why not just switch to a manual rack and pinion? My ex IM "D" has manual rack and pinion steering and I liked it so much my new Speedster is being built with one too.
(Message Edited 8/5/2003 2:39:53 PM)

George,

Tell me more! What rack and pinion kits can be used and where can I get one? I agree, that would be a real upgrade.

Scott

Hey Richard, I feel your pain. I'm new at this, but I now cars. Seems like the only dead response you get from some folks on this site is to buy a manual. If this is a knowledge base for speedsters, we all need help. I figured out all the issues I've had so far on my own, and I guess that's how it will go. Be assured, if I have information or experience on a topic, I'll chime in; and I'll NEVER tell someone to just go buy a manual.

Scott Blackstone

(Message Edited 8/5/2003 4:08:25 PM)

Scott, the rack and pinion on my ex IM "D" I think (?) is from a VW Passat, and I believe IM is using a smaller and lighter VW Golf unit on my new Speedster.

George,

Would the CAL Look site be the best place for Richard to bounce ideas off qualified experts? Or maybe Richard, you should call Henry at IM directly.

I've always wondered with all the retro-fits say like CB Perf. and others
offer, that there isn't an easy bolt on rack and pinion steering set-up
available.
BD

George,

I know it would be a pain in the can, but if you could get a parts list on one of these conversion (the lighter gulf would be better) we could begin to document this. Then this club would have working knowlege of what's invlolved. I'm willing to perform the conversion and document with photo's; the works, so others can do the same.

Just a thought,

Scott

Rack and pinion sounds good (it's on my short list for my "next" speedster). But how about a center mounted rack? All the local dune buggies run them. Parts are readily available (including power racks for really big sand tires). It would at least get rid of that ridiculous "short rod -long rod" setup we have now. And be sure that the arms are on the BOTTOM of the spindle for lowered front beams. My JPS seems to have plenty of clearance to the body for this mod. Anyone tried a centermounted rack?

Scott, other than a VW Golf manual rack and pinion for my new Speedster I haven't a clue. I don't know if Henry has to change or adapt the arms, and of course since he builds each tube frame from scratch he can fabricate any necessary mounting brackets or adapters and can modify existing parts.

If they're using center mount rack and pinion on dune buggies I can't see that it would be a difficult fit to a speedster. Who sells one? I would like to see some pictures of one. I'm on a mision now!

scott

Update:

I spoke with the people that build these www.off-road.com/vw/wright/prwright.html. They tell me they work great in street applications. The issue will be clearance for the steering shaft. I have the dimensions and geometry so I'm looking into it. I'll keep you posted. Looks like it will run about $600.00 for a complete kit.

Doesn

Has anyone found a ZF steering box?
I thought we used those all up in the 70's on Off road cars.
That was the box of choice for the Baja and off road racers.

Greg B

For what it is worth, I was able to obtain a used ZF steering box on E-Bay for a very reasonable price. The unit finally arrived. It is very tight with no slop, the movement is smooth. I will attempt the installation this weekend. Hopefully, I will not have the problems stated in the various responses to my original inquiry.

Richard- I am interested in what you find out about the ZF steering box especially if it bolt straight onto a VW beam? I also saw one on eBay, but the $4K+ asking price almost made me choke.

Glenn
I will be publishing the installation, or maybe I should say attempt at installation.
I don't think that the e-bay auction you saw was for a ZF steering box
for a 356. I got mine for some $120.00. I've been looking for some time on e-bay and the usual going price is around $200 for a non-rebuilt box and about $750.00 for a completely rebuilt box.

Has anyone looked into what kinds of mods are required to get rid of the steering box altogether and upgrade to rack and pinion.

Greg B

I do know you need a double jointed column set up,to keep the steering wheel where you want it.
The tie rod ends should interchange.
And if the spine is compadible it will be quick
That leaves the rack to pan mount? I did the first 2 when I built my car.
Now that I know the golf rack is smaller than the passot. If I ever get back to that,I can upgrade it quickly.